A pivotal moment

 As it happens in life of all "true men" a pivotal moment comes when one has to release his ...

... climbing gear! No, it hasn't happen to me yet, but this time came to one of the Founding Fathers of our Club - Jacek Wojno. 

I got to know Jacek shortly after moving to Edmonton at the turn of the centuries (the year 2000). I immediately developed love for this man who shared my passion for the mountains. Jacek came to Canada with his parents when he was only 17. Shortly thereafter he discovered Rocky Mountains and by the time I met him, he climbed, scrambled, and hiked these mountains for many years. He became a member of the Alpine Club of Canada. He trekked in the Himalayas! I have always been impressed by his profound knowledge of the history of mountaineering in Canada, Poland and everywhere in the world. 

With Jacek we conceived a plan to climb Mount Assiniboine, the Matterhorn of the Rockies, in 2002.

To prepare ourselves for this task, which required some climbing, we went to do some training in Hidden Valley, behind Roche Miette. 

Unfortunately, after only a few meters of an easy route we tried, a big piece of rock detached under my weight and crushed my foot. It was Jacek's quick and decisive action (as there was no reception in Hidden Valley we couldn't call for help) - running down to the highway and alerting a warden - that prevented my bleeding to death. 

There is no doubt in my mind that I owe Jacek my life. 

Though my accident caused a few years of delay, we eventually visited Assiniboine in 2009, not so much to climb it, but to see it with our own eyes. This photo was taken by Roman Lipiecki who accompanied us to the trip. 

The same year I attended, with Jacek, the ACA's camp in Yoho National Park, during which we both climbed Mt. President - my first 3000 meters peak. 

In 2010, Jacek, still full of youthful vigor and stamina, broke his leg on Big Sister near Canmore. This was the trip during which we conceived the idea of ... Polish Men Mountaineering Club of Edmonton!

Jacek returned to the mountains only two years later. In 2012 he scrambled Eiffel Peak, also over 3000 meters, while, to my shame, I couldn't do it. He was always strong like a lion! (Mount Temple in the background)

The same year we scrambled another 3000-nder, Mt. Rae, with Jacek dancing on the exposed summit ridge like ... ballerina!

In 2013, with a bigger group, we visited Lake O'Hara. Jacek, a tougher, took a dip in the cold mountain lake. 

This picture, taken during that trip, won our first Photo-Contest. Piotr, Mike and Jacek exposing their "machismo" in Lake Oesa. 

However, a year later Jacek developed heart problems and eventually had his heart operation. This practically ended his career as a mountaineer.

In 2018, I was happy to spend some time with Jacek in the mountains again. Jacek insisted however that the years of mountain explorations are behind him as negotiating a set of stairs was not without a challenge for him. 

Jacek remained interested in the mountains however. It is not easy to let go of the love of your life. He shares with us the most interesting mountain movies through his page. 

Returning to Jacek's climbing gear ... Boris kindly agreed to be a depository of this fine gift. Boris will make this gear available for our members for via ferratas or climbing as a need may be. He also agreed to make a monetary donation to the Alpine Club of Canada in Jacek's name. 

So ... a pivotal moment ... to let go of the rope that used to tie you to other people "for life and death." The "bond of the rope" is very powerful as only a few others. To let go of this bond is not easy - it may require more courage than climbing itself! I can only hope that, when this pivotal moment comes to me, I will be able to release my gear as graciously as Jacek did!

Jacek, chapeau bas! 

(PR)