Tonquin and Eremite Valleys, Mt. Clitoris, or three days in the mud.

Hearing that some of our club members haven't seen the Ramparts, the iconic rock formation of Canada, which I first saw on a poster shortly after immigrating to this country, I decided to organize a trip to Tonquin Valley. I was lucky to book 6 spots in Wates-Gibson Hut, about 5 kilometers from the Ramparts. Myself I visited Tonquin Valley in 1993. This is not an easy hike - about 16 kilometers long (my GPS showing over 18 km to Wates-Gibson) and you have to carry food and everything for 2-3 days.

Knowing that "personal hygiene" may be problematic in the following days, with my companions - Roman, Teresa, Ken, Asia and Mike - we did preventatively a bit of "water purification" in Miette Hot Springs on Friday, 2 August.

(Clicking on the pictures allows to see them in bigger size).

We spent first night at Mount Edith Cavell Hostel. We had access to clean bedding, but lack of water and electricity was inconvenient.

To outstretch our legs we walked in the evening toward Mt. Edith Cavell, named after British nurse who died during the World War I, caring for her patients to the very end.

Reinforced by our Superstar, Gennadij, who arrived late at night the previous day, we hit the trail.

We were quickly confronted by the first nuisance - mosquitoes.

Soon we looked like a band of bank robbers.

After about 8 km, we took a trail directly to Wates-Gibson Hut. It is much narrower comparing to the regular trail to Tonquin Valley, which is also used by horses.

We had to cross countless streams, and generally deal with very muddy conditions. It was very tiresoming. We reached Wates-Gibson quite exhausted ...

... and were quite happy to warm ourselves next to the hut's wood stove. Mattresses at Wates-Gibson are quite wide, so we all had comfortable night rest. The only irritant was the lack of toilet paper - luckily we brought some ourselves.

We were ready for action before 9 next morning.

We decided to split. Team A - Asia, Roman and Gennadij joined forces with the friendly hiker group from Calgary in assault of Mt. Clitheroe (2748 m).

As none was quite sure how to pronounce it, we simplified it as Mt. Clitoris, which led to many humorous conversations.

At the same time, Team B - Ken, Mike, Teresa and this writer - tackled picturesque Eremite Valley ...

 ... a hike of similar length, but less altitude gain.

Upon seeing the Ramparts ...

... Asia and Roman jumped up with joy!

However, finding a way through the wet terrains around the Amethyst Lake ...

... and bushwhacking was taking toll on them. One by one the members of both Calgary and Edmonton groups were giving up ...

... so eventually the top of Mt. Clitheroe was reached only by this sharp couple from Calgary ...

... and our Superstar, Gennadij. 

For the glory of the Club! Gena, spasibo! 

According to the register on top of the mountain, they were the first party that reached the top since 2017. Reportedly, there were only about thirty ascents of this mountain since 1915!

Team B also had to deal with a lot of mud.

After crossing this 2 km long alpine meadow, we were wet to the waist from the morning dew.

Somewhat higher up, we were rewarded by the view of Mt. Erebus glacier.

But even on higher elevations, mosquitoes were never too far away.

Teresa made us to do 120% of the plan - we hiked much above Arrowhead Lake, which was our objective for the day.

On Teresa's stipulation, Ken and Mike almost jumped into the glacier lake below, which shows that all the progress of the humankind is accomplished thanks to women!

Both teams slept well that night, without alcohol (!), with the exception of Gennadij who took this fantastic night picture of Mt. Outpost. Wates-Gibson Hut is located next to Outpost Lake, at the bottom of this mountain.

Because of the wet conditions around Amethyst Lake (reportedly up to half of a boot, with no way around it), and Mike's knee injury the previous day (he slipped in mud), the whole group decided to descend directly to the cars, rather than taking a 5 km longer route through Tonquin Valley. I was somewhat disappointed as it meant I could see my beloved Ramparts only from afar.

But team needs are more important than our individual wishes, isn't it?

Seeing Ramparts from a distance was still quite a treat and a worthy reward for the challenges of these three days. So long, Ramparts!

(PR)

P.S. Thanks to Gennadij for permission to use some of his pictures.