Skoki Backpacking Adventure

 I discovered the Skoki area about 4 years ago.  I could not believe that after hiking in the Rocky Mountains since 1997 or longer I have never been there.

Skoki is behind Lake Louise ski area and that's probably a reason why I never ventured there.

It is very difficult to make a campground reservation through Parks Canada website as the backpacking in Skoki area is very popular.

Here is a view of far away Plain of Six Glaciers from the Fish Creek parking area.

Three years ago, I was able to book a campground at the end of September for a very first time. I booked a campground at Hidden Lake first and the Baker Lake next, but nothing was available near Skoki Lodge and Merlin Campground.

As I didn't backpack for a few years I was planning my gear and my food carefully down to last gram.  I didn't even take my phone or camera to save on weight.

After an early start and driving through misty road to Lake Louise on Friday, Sep. 30, 2022 I was able to leave the Fish Creek parking lot in the morning. As it was only the second time we celebrated National Day for Truth and Reconciliation in Canada, I proudly wore my orange T-shirt.*

It was about 8 km backpack and 600 plus meters of elevation gain with the first 4 km on the ski area access road. I had enough time to break a camp plus hike to Hidden Lake in the evening for a more leisurely hike.  There were some deer and ptarmigan on the trail. 

Next day I had a late start, and got on the way to Baker Lake with a side stop at Deception pass around noon.  As a result, I made it to Baker Lake when it was getting dark.  I didn't realize that the Campground was at very end of the lake.  The night was the most beautiful, starry night in my life.  This night made me promise myself to go back to Skoki area for more stars.  The weather was amazing.  With fall colors and larches plus fantastic views all around me I can't believe that I don't have even one picture from this trip.

It took a while for my next trip to Skoki area.  I booked the campground in late September 2023, however we decided to go to San Francisco instead with Ania S.  Since then, there was no campground available for reservation during the season. 

I was still dreaming about it and hoping to see Skoki area again. Fortunately, I was checking Parks Canada website and saw some space available and open in the middle of September 2025. After finding space on Thursday, and some fast and furious planning I was able to finalize the reservation on Friday.

It meant that I only had Friday evening to pack and start trip on Saturday morning for a 3-day hike of about 30 km.

I arrived at Lake Louise and Fish Creek parking lot at 1:00 pm with a smaller backpack.  Knowing I still needed to attach my tent I quickly repacked into a bigger backpack. I tried to be reasonable about water and not bring too much as there was water on the way up. 

It was tough going up the mountain with a heavy backpack on the access ski road for first 4 km.  Weather wasn't too hot, which was good.

After leaving around 2 pm I arrived around 6 pm at the Hidden Lake campground.  Campground was full.  Some people were finishing 4-7 days backpacking adventures. After setting up my tent, and putting space blanket under my tent, I was warm and cozy in the tent.  The only annoying thing in the evening were the sounds of tent zippers being open and closed.  It was hard to get to sleep with the constant noise of zippers and other tents close by.

On Sunday, I got up early and got ready to go.

Going towards Deception Pass – near Ptarmigan lake.

After passing the Ptarmigan Lake I was ready to go to Deceptions pass (2475 m).  Many other hikers going to Skoki lodge were on the way as well.  

It was a tough, steep going with a heavy backpack.  I took many breaks and planned for a lunch break at the top of the pass.

On the way I met a delightful family from San Francisco with 3 very young boys.  It was amazing to see young kids conquering the mountains with their Dad's and Mom's support.   They were going to Skoki lodge which they booked 1 year in advance.  Those kids deserve lots of praise. :)

At the Deception Pass I went up higher for a better view and discovered another lake above Ptarmigan Lake.  I don't think I noticed it 3 years ago.  

View from the Deception Pass towards Ptarmigan Lake and the lake above.

After a long lunch break at Deception pass I continued my hike.  More surprises followed on the way down.

There were Glaciers on my left hand site that kept growing and expanding.  I didn't expect that I would be sleeping near and with the view of the Glaciers.

Skoki lakes were below the glaciers. Very beautiful lakes, fed by Glaciers with the fall at the end and a wall.

Going down among those views was fantastic.  I was getting very tired and hoping for my campground but surprise, the Lodge was first.

The last km was hard.  As it was threatening to rain, I set up my tent first.  The good thing about Merlin campground was that there were not designated tent sites like usually on the campgrounds.  There was just general area that you could choose from.  I switched my spot few times till I set my tent with the view of the Glacier.

Instead of lockers like at Hidden lake campground, you had to put your food on the bear pole. I had an early dinner with a bit of rain.  Looking back, I probably could have gone and do some exploring in the area, but I was too tired, and the day was pretty full. 

Next day was a D Day when I had to get back to Fish Creek parking lot and cover 15 km.  I started early.  There was no one on trail till almost noon. After getting up to Deception Pass everything went well.  I stopped for a snack at the top and continue till the Halfway hut.  Halfway hut was a hoot. (Check the legend below re halfway hut).

I made a longer lunch break there with a tea. Later, I saw some horses on the way to the lodge.

I had a good time and arrived at the parking lot at 5 pm.  I was so happy that everything went well, and I was able to visit Skoki area.

Let me know if you would like to join me in future.  We could plan the Skoki circuit that is usually done in 3-4 days.  

To all the best times and adventures in the mountains!

Bozenna Pomorski

* Check out the Indigenous Canada Course - By University of Alberta at www.coursera.org