Bald Hills in winter - by Boris Bokov

It was a bluebird day, and it turned out we called it a summer day. It was already 15 C in the morning. I thought the snow would turn into mush, and I knew we had already made a rookie mistake: we were too late. We should have started our climb at 6 AM and be back by noon or the latest, at 1 PM. We would have evaded high temperatures, hot sun, and wet and slushy snow. I even didn't think about avalanches, as I knew we would choose mellow slopes.

I also knew we would have fun. And we wouldn't need to worry about ticks and bears. It would be too much snow for both species :).

We departed for Maligne Lake at 9 AM and reached the Bald Hills trailhead at 10:25 AM. The drive was stunning. No clouds, blue skies, white peaks, and no cars made everything magical. I took quite a few photos and videos. Not recording it would be shameful; such beauty can only lift our spirits. Also, it was interesting to compare nature; 20 years ago, ten years ago, or at any given time, during which I was diligent in capturing the beauty.

A few cars were in the parking; some were wiser than us! A couple (old fashioned, a man and a woman! 😊) were just departing, and it turned out that he was visiting from Boston, US. I thought they wouldn't go all the way, as they didn't have snowshoes, nor I saw any avalanche equipment. The man said, "he checked All Trails and saw on the photos that there was no snow on the top." I agreed in my mind that this was wishful thinking; he probably read some old reports. I also knew blindly following some Apps was not part of my MO.

I talked to Parks Canada employees who were circling the parking: Both said that it would be Sisyphus's work to try going to the top without snowshoes. I knew it would be hard, and we would struggle, but I didn't say anything to Anna and Ada. It was up to us to "judge it," but we were here to have fun and explore our inner beings.

We started our hike at 10:50 AM (which was SUPER late) and quickly gained the first two horizontal kilometres. That was great, except we didn't gain much vertical. The Bald Hills hike is fairly flat, especially the first half. We already had snowshoes on as post-holing started. A four skiers group was on their way back. I thought they knew it would have been a super slushy day, so they started very early. Good for them.

We decided to go to the Lookout via shortcut. The shortcut was the new "first" for me. In 2021, with Gennady, we went to the top via the long counter clockwise loop. It turned out that this decision was the best one today. 

The shortcut is steep(er), so it had firmer snow, so post-holing decreased. The slope was still "avalanche comfortable" (if any of it could be, in such conditions), but I knew we would go as fast as possible.

Also, the views opened up quickly, and we could enjoy Maligne Lake and the Eastern peaks above it. The lake is still pretty much frozen.

We all led and broke the trail. Anna and Ada did it during the first third, and I took the lead when the slope got steeper. It was hard, but it was fun. The hardest parts were around trees, as tree wells were unpredictable, and the challenge was relentless side-hilling. The snow was partly firm, and we were not sinking too much. There was around 150 cm of snow, and walking on it was enjoyable. I was happy as we didn't have to worry about ticks.

It was nice to see Anna advancing without serious difficulties. I knew she could do it, but I didn't think she would be so proficient on snowshoes. It was her first time using it, and she quickly figured it out. Of course, it was in "Anna's way," full of interesting comments and unavoidable determination. Anna is fabulous and fearless, and her energy feels unlimited. No person would say that she is a grandmother. She can be seductively overwhelming, but that is a tiny part of the "Anna combo." Ada and I applauded her for her efforts today. Besides efforts, she brings fun and lightness to hiking. 

We reached the Lookout at 14:00 hrs, after three hours and 10 minutes of snowshoeing. We were slow, and the mountain showed who the boss was. Even the fittest people would slow down in such conditions. But I knew we would be the last Lookout visitors in a long time until the snow melts significantly or it gets cold again.

Going to the higher Lookout was impossible, as the heat and sun were shining full force, and the snow was getting more unstable.

We could get there, but it would take us at least four hours, and then, to come back, it would be impossible to do it before the night.

It was a nice break at the Bald Hills lookout fence. We had lunch, replenished our energy reserves, and fed the brave birds. It was a mistake to feed them, but we couldn't resist their seduction.

I was worried about our return, as I knew it would take a long time to get down. The snow wasn't supportive anymore; we would use the longer route (which is not steep), 2 km longer, flat and dull.

We left the summit at 14:50 PM. It took us a bit longer to return, so I was right about my prediction. We were back at the parking at 6:10 PM, which meant we needed 3:20 hrs to snowshoe back. The overall time was much slower than "normal" (it would take us ~ 4 hrs), resulting from summer snow conditions.

The good thing was we were back, and everything went smoothly. At one moment, late into the downclimb, I started having cramps in my right adductors, which were very painful. I was running out of electrolytes. Anna and Ada gave me an energy bar and a banana. This helped as I recovered quickly.

The walk down could be considered "suffering," but I say it was "prevailing." Every step was important, and we had to stay focused, balanced and patient. It was impossible to predict when we would go through the snow and when it would break beneath our feet/snowshoes. The most challenging parts were the flat or uphill segments. The snow was softer there, got "baked" more, and we would sink almost to our hips. It was hard and fun at the same time to free ourselves, and in many instances, we needed each other's help. We all led and broke the trail.

I did enjoy it all, as it was the ultimate test for my knee. The operated knee endured all post-holing, spontaneous, deep slipping, and countless lateral slips. I imagined that repaired meniscus and reconstructed ACL/MCL were getting an incredible workout. I was careful and maintained my focus. Even though I struggled with tendon pain, the rest of my knee was getting significant stress; I was feeling strong, content and happy.

Ada would take off, and I enjoyed watching her walk effortlessly. She led, broke the trail, and powerfully emerged from deep snow after falling and getting stuck in it. She mastered many things in life and called many hard things "a piece of cake." Today, summer snowshoeing at Bald Hills was another piece of cake 😊.

We triggered at least ten avalanches, which were harmless as we were on forgiving terrain. As I broke the trail, I would press the snow down, trying to make a step/space, and then the snow around me would collapse. The break would propagate 40 - 50 metres, and we could see how the area left and right, with snow on it, would collapse. When I pressed, the weak layers that were already stressed got a little more pressure, triggering the collapse. If the terrain were steeper, all of that snow would slide. It was Avalanche 101, and it was so educational to see it. Of course, we omitted all steep slopes, as the avalanche forecast was in the red zone. I was glad I recorded the snow collapses Ada triggered - it looks fascinating!

We were back in carless parking when the sun subsided, primarily because of the high mountains that gave us shade. It was nice to remove the snowshoes. I wondered if my socks would be wet, and unsurprisingly, the tips of my toes were moist. No waterproof technology could stop so much water from penetrating any material. But 90% of my feet/socks were dry. Gaiters played a significant role again, as well as all other carefully chosen clothes.

After we changed, we briefly went to the boat launch, as the views were "poisonous." The Maligne Lake mountains, and the Guardians, Unwin and Charlton, were there, making us unimportant and small, without intention. 

I thought, how again and again, the mountains have the last laugh. 

The drive back was terrific; I loved the road around Medicine Lake and the descent to Athabasca Valley. Pyramid Mountain and other western peaks stood as gendarmes, and the Old Man's Face told us it was time to go to our human safety.

The safety for us was another great meal at Milos and another 10% of our meal. Ada and I had carbs, which was almost too much, so we felt bloated. Well, the chocolate cake and Rickard's Red were "culprits" as well.

I was concerned about tomorrow. My knee was in pain, and my operated leg was stiff after driving. I knew I would apply massage cream and take some anti-inflammatory medicine.

But none of it didn't matter; I forgot about the leg weaknesses as I (and all of us) experienced new things again today. Anna and Ada were the first time on Bald Hills, and I hiked via the shortcut.

I also wondered if I would ever feel no pain in the operated knee. It almost doesn't matter anymore, and I am used to it. However, I cannot get used to the possible fact that I am now 1/10 of the active person I was. Ada tells me I will return to the pre-injuries/pre-surgeries state, and I am thankful for that.

The first step will be tomorrow on Morro. But I have doubts and don't know if that will happen. I will learn it only if I continue exposing myself to nature.

(BB)